How to Roof – A Guide to Installing Asphalt Shingles

Posted on by Alex

Basic Planning and Preparation for a Re-Roofing Job

Plan the entire job in advance, always plan for 10% waste in your calculations, and NEVER take shortcuts to get the job done. The most important part of this project is SAFETY!!!

1. Whenever possible, have at least one person to help you. Just one body can make a huge difference in more efficient use of time, and wear and tear on your body.

2. Before beginning, you need to be able to tell the type of a roof your house has. You need to know how to tell a difference between a hip vs. a gable roof. You also need to know if there are any dormers, or some other intersects and valleys on your roof.

3. Note how many vents and stacks are on your roof, and most importantly, you need to estimate your roof pitch. I will cover most common roof types in the next section…

Now, you have a few decisions to make; decide on the type of shingle you want to install, pick a roofing shingle color, and decide whether or not you are going to tear off your old roof, or choose to re-roof over the existing shingles, instead.

How to pick the right type and Color of Roofing Shingles

Start out by looking at your neighbors’ houses to get a feel for what types or roofs are installed in your neighborhood. That may help you with a color selection, and with choosing a shingle type for your area. Now, lets start breaking all of this down so you can determine what you want, and need…

Roof Types:

There are many types of roof designs. Below are descriptions of the most common roofs in use today. You may have a modified form of a one of these roofs. Read each description, and see what type, or a combination of roof styles that best describes your roof.

  • Gable Roof

    • This roof contains two sloping planes of equal pitch on both sides of the ridge. On the perpendicular ends there is a gable, which is the upper part of each sidewall that creates a triangular point at the ridge of the roof.

  • Hip Roof:

    • This roof contains four sloping planes of the same pitch but not the same size. The front and back of the roof are usually the major slopes, and the two sides of the roof are the smaller planes. A hip roof does not have a gable.

  • Hip and Valley:

    • This roof is comprised of two or more hip roofs joined perpendicular to each other. This is what creates a valley, when two planes meet.

  • Gable and Valley:

    • This roof is created when another gable, or a hip roof intersects with the non-gable side(s) of a gable roof. These roofs are usually present due to an addition being added to a gable-type home.

    Roofing Shingles Types and Differences

    There are two styles of asphalt shingle you can use, a 3-tab, and an architectural. Both are installed in
    the same manner. The difference is in the visual style of shingles, and in the way they are manufactured…

    3-tab shingles are a thick single layer of asphalt impregnated mat material pressed, and then coated with granules. This design allows them to lay very flat together giving the roof an almost smooth flat look.

    Architectural (also known as dimensional) shingles     are made by compressing, and adhering multiple layers of asphalt mat material to a thick base. This design gives a shingle a fuller layered (or 3D) look, and also makes the shingle more durable, and longer lasting. Architectural shingles have a 30 to 50 year warranty depending on the manufacturer, while a 3-tab usually carries a 20 year warranty.

    Roofing Terms:

    Bundle: A package of shingles. There are between 3-5 bundles of shingles per roof square.

    Butt Edge: The lower edge of a tab on a shingle.

    Closed Cut Valley: When the shingles from one side of the valley are laid across the valley while shingles from the opposite side are trimmed back approximately two inches from the center of the valley.

    Collar (Vent Sleeve, or a Boot): Pre-formed flange made of neoprene rubber or aluminum, and designed to slide over a vent pipe to enclose the outer vent pipe opening.

    Counter flashing: That portion of the flashing attached to a vertical surface to prevent water from migrating behind the base flashing.

    Course: A row of shingles installed on the roof.

    Cutout: The open strip sections tabs of the shingle.

    Deck: The plywood surface that is attached to the rafters.

    Dormer: A framed window gable that is installed in the roof slope. A dormer can also be the entire slope of the roof raised on the eave side up to a pitch of 2:12 off the ridge. This is done to turn an attic into a 2nd floor without actually tearing off the entire roof to build a true 2nd floor. You will mostly see this on a Cape Cod home.

    Drip Edge: metal strip attached along the eaves and rakes to keep water from getting under the shingles and rotting the roof decking underneath.

    Eaves: The horizontal area under the overhang from the rake leading back to the wall plate.

    Fascia: Is the front strip where the roof edge and the soffit meet. This is where a gutter is attached.

    Flashing: Pieces of galvanized metal used to prevent water seepage of any roofing joints or items that come through the roof. Examples include roof valleys, vents, stacks, dormers, etc.

    Flashing Cement: A petroleum based sealer used to seal flashing inner and outer edges as well as nail heads.

    Hip shingles: pre-made or custom cut standard shingles used to cover the joints of the roofs sloping planes.

    Ice and Water Shield: Waterproof underlayment designed to protect against water being forced up under the shingle caused by ice damming and wind.

    Lap: To overlay the next row of shingles on top of the previous row.

    Lap cement: A petroleum-based adhesive used to seal overlapping edges of roll roofing.

    Overhang: That section of the roof that extends over the exterior wall.

    Pitch: Is the ratio between the rise and the span. It is measured in feet, but stated in inches. Example: 4:12 is 12 inches of span (or run when measured to the ridge) will generate 4 inches of rise. 4:12 is the most common pitch used in standard roof design.

    Rafter: Provides a framing support that a deck is secured too. Rafters run from the ridge to the wall plate. They usually have a 16 inch on center span between them.

    Rake: An inclined edge of a sloped roof over a wall from the eave to the ridge. This is a gable side of the house.

    Ridge: A peak of the roof where the two sloped planes meet at the top.

    Ridge shingles: Shingles used to cover a horizontal external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.

    Rise: The distance from the top of the ridge straight down to the horizontal eaves line.

    Roll roofing: (Also known as felt, felt paper, and underlayment) Asphalt impregnated material in roll form used to go between the deck and the shingle as an added layer of protection.

    Run: A horizontal distance from the eaves to a point directly under the ridge. One half the span.

    Self-sealing shingles: Shingles containing factory-applied strips or spots of self-sealing adhesive that bonds shingle courses together when exposed to the heat of the sun after application.

    Soffit: A finished underside of the eaves.

    Span: A horizontal distance from eaves to eaves.

    Square: A unit of roof measure covering 100 square feet.

    Starter strip: Asphalt roofing applied at the eaves. It provides protection by filling in the spaces under the cutouts and joints of the first course of shingles.

    Tab: An exposed portion of strip shingles defined by cutouts.

    Top lap: A portion of the shingles covered by the next course of shingles.

    Valley: The joint created where two sloping roof planes come together providing a place for a water runoff.

    Vent: Any outlet for air that penetrates through the roof such as a pipe or a stack. It can be any device installed on the roof slope, ridge, gable, or soffit for the purpose of providing ventilation to the underside of the roof deck. Terms you will hear are ridge vent, soffit vent, gable vent, and box vent.

    Woven Valley: Shingles from both sides of the valley extend across the valley and are joined together by overlapping alternate courses of shingle during installation. This will completely cover the flashing installed in the valley.

    Tools of the Trade

    When installing a new asphalt shingle roof, you really do not need any specialty tools to tear-off, and re-roof your home. However, the job will go much faster and easier, if you can rent, or borrow some of the power specialty tools.

    Essentials:

    Flat shovel or pitch fork
    Pry bar
    Tin snips
    Roofing hammer
    Shingle knife and extra blades
    Staple gun
    Extension ladder
    Gloves
    Roof ladder and or safety harness with roof anchors
    Framing square
    Tape measure
    Chalk line
    Dumpster (2 yds. per 100 sq.ft.)
    2“, 4“, 6“ putty knives
    Caulk gun
    Circular saw
    Drill
    Jig saw (or reciprocating saw)

    Safety

    ALWAYS keep your safety in mind. A 10-20 foot fall can be deadly.

    Preferred Tools to have:

    Air nail Gun
    Pneumatic tear off shovel (manual tear off shovel at a minimum)
    Air compressor
    Tack hammer (instead of a staple gun)

    Roofing Materials You will need

    Drip edge,
    Waterproof underlayment (ice and water shield for cold weather areas)
    Roll roofing
    Rake edge flashing
    Valley flashing (if you have valleys)
    Stack flashing/boots
    Starter rolls
    Shingles

    Ridge vent (if not doing a box vent system)
    Soffit vents (if using the ridge and soffit vent system) Flashing cement
    Roofing nails
    Tacks or staples
    Box vents (If not doing a soffit and ridge vent system)
    Plywood (if deck repair is needed and to use to protect shrubbery)
    Large tarps to catch falling debris from the tear off

    How to Measure Your Roof:

    Roofing is measured in squares. To figure out your roof’s area, a simple geometry can be used. The key is to be as accurate as possible since falling short, or an overage could mean thousands of dollars when planning your roofing budget. Below is a simple triangle, and the math used to work out how to make a proper measurement. Once you work through the basic triangle, we will review a typical roof, and how to apply some simple math to calculate how much material you will need for a roof used in our hypothetical example.

    1 roof square = 100 square feet; The length (l) times the height (h) of a triangle is twice its area (A2). So if you divide your answer of a product of length times height by two, you will get the area of a triangle. (l×h)/2 = Area

    Calculating area of a triangle

    Calculating area of a triangle

    In Figure above: l=30 feet h=12 feet (30′ × 12′)/2 = 180 square feet

    Now that the basic concept has been covered, let’s take a look at a more complex roofing system. In this overhead view you see both a hip-end section, and gable ends. With a more complex roof such is this one, it is highly recommended that you make a basic sketch. By doing so, it will be easier to mark your measurements, and calculate your materials. For this example we will break this roof up into sections labeled A through E.

    sketch of a Hip and Gable Roof combination

    sketch of a Hip and Gable Roof combination


    Fig. A

    Calculating for a Basic Triangle of a Hip Roof
    Fig. B

    In the figure B. above, a sketched portion is a basic triangle. As we did in the first example, measure the length of the eaves, and the vertical line from the eaves half way point to the peak. Multiply these numbers, and then, divide the answer by two.
    (30′ × 18′)/2 = 270 square feet

    Figure C. of a Hip Roof split in half

    Figure C. of a Hip Roof split in half


    Fig. C

    The easiest way to measure this section is to divide it up into three different sections: S1, S2, and S3. As you can see, S1 and S3 are the same size, but you still need to document all measurement points to verify your material calculation accuracy. Since S2 is now a rectangle, simple L x W is all that is required.

    S1 = (18′ × 15′)/2 = 135 square feet
    S2 = 50′ × 15′ = 750 square feet
    S3 = (18′ × 15′)/2 = 135 square feet

    Adding up our totals from these three sections = 1,020 square feet.

    Figure D.

    Figure D. Overhead view of a Hip and Gable Roof Split in sections


    Fig. D

    Again, we divide the roof up in sections. Measure eave to ridge and rake to valley for S4 and S5. S6 and S7 is from eave end to valley end as well as eave to ridge.

    S6 = (18′ × 18′)/2 = 162 square feet
    S7 = (18′ × 18′)/2 = 162 square feet
    Or you could add the two 18′ widths getting 36 and multiply by 18′ length divide the answer by 2 and get the same answer of 324′ for both S6 and S7
    For S1 and S2 we will add the total length on the rake side and multiply that by the eave to get our answer
    18′+18′=36′ x 30′= 1080 square feet
    Fig C total: 324′ + 1080′ = 1404 square feet

    Figure E. Valley, Ridge, and Rake area.

    Figure E. Valley, Ridge, and Rake area.


    Fig. E
    Here we will start with S9 18′ x 10′ = 180′ and S8 (18′ x 18′)/2 = 162′ for a total of 342 square feet.

    The last two sections are as follows: 96′ x 18′ = 1728′ and (18′ x 18′)/2 = 162′ for a total of 1890 square feet

    Sum It Up – Total Roof Calculations:

    Now, take all sections and add them up. Fig A = 270 Fig B = 1,020 Fig C = 1,404 Fig D = 342 Fig E = 1890 for a grand total of 4,926 square feet. Or, roughly 50 squares. Remember that 1 square = 100 square feet.

    Roof Tear off

    Doing a Roof Tear Off

    Doing a Roof Tear Off

    Before starting your tear off, watch the weather reports. You should figure a two person team can only tear off and replace about 250 square feet of roofing per day. Make sure you have enough tarps to cover exposed areas in the event it rains, before you can paper over the exposed roof decking.

    Make sure you have protected your shrubs by leaning plywood on a diagonal against the house over the shrubs. Also, place the dumpster as close to your main work area as possible. This will allow you to use a tarp, or a piece of plywood as a slide to drop your waste directly into the dumpster. For easier yard cleanup, lay tarps on the ground to catch the fallen material.

    Fascia inspection, check for rot, or other damage that could weaken the boards. Remove the gutters if the fascia needs to be replaced.

    Using pry bars, remove the ridge vent (if present). If no ridge vent is present, use your shovel to remove the shingle cap on the ridge.

    Starting at the ridge, use your shovel to pry off old shingles. Do this by sliding hard under the layers of shingle and paper, then pry upward. Start at the end, and move in and down. Remove small sections at a time and gather the loose material to throw in the dumpster. Avoid just pushing all the old roofing into the yard as this could cause damage to the house and yard despite the covering. This also makes cleanup much more difficult.

    Use the shovel or pry bars to remove drip edge flashing from the eaves and rake. Remove the flashing from chimneys, valleys, and stacks. Remove the old box vents and flashing surrounding them (if present).
    Once complete, do a complete walk through, and remove all remaining pieces of shingle, paper, and roofing nails. The surface needs to be completely free of all protrusions to prevent damage to new roofing.


    Deck Inspection/Repair

    Now that your roof is stripped, it’s time to inspect for any damage to the decking. It’s very important to have a solid deck free of rot, sags, and making sure that deck’s sheeting is firmly secured to the rafters. When inspecting the decking, check all wood from the attic as well as from the top.

    Cut all damaged decking with a circular saw, setting the blade 1/16” deeper than the deck material. You want to cut the deck, but you have to do it ever-so-carefully as not to damage the rafters underneath. Rafters are made from dimensional lumber (2” x6”, 2” x 8”). The thickness of the rafter is actually 1 1/2”, so when cutting to the rafter, you will cut over the rafter 3/4”. This is called cutting on center. After cutting out the rotted piece, install a cross member of the same size dimensional lumber as your rafter. You will place one cross member 3/4” under the existing decking on both the ridge and eave side. Now you have four solid surfaces to nail your replacement piece of decking. Secure using 8D nails spaced no more than 6” apart.

    Once all rotted decking is replaced, do a close inspection for decking and deck nails coming loose. Pound all loose nails back into the deck and add 8 D nails for loose decking. Make sure all decking has nails every 6”. Any piece of decking that wont hold a nail must be replace, as the wood it rotted from the inside or is too warped to be drawn in.

    Roofing Shingles Installation:

    Start by applying the drip edge to the eaves of your roof. If your eave is one straight length, then pick an end, and work to the other. Use a roofing nail (1”) to tack the drip edge down, one every 10” When placing two pieces of drip edge together, overlap one end over the other by 1” and secure using two roofing nails, one in the back, and one in the front. Make sure when driving the nails, you also flatten the flashing as flat as possible.

    Next, install the ice-and-water shield to the following areas: eaves valleys, box vent holes, stacks, chimney’s, dormers, and ridge areas.

    Check your local building codes for proper coverage. Some codes require for eave coverage, a distance of two feet up the roof from the outer wall, other codes may require 3 or more feet from the outer wall. So if we are using the 2′, and you have a one foot overhang, you will have to cover the first three feet of decking with ice-and-water shield. Ice-and-water-shield is a self-stick waterproof membrane. Once it makes contact, it is nearly impossible to pull it back up to adjust.

    Make sure you have your alignment before peeling away the backing and placing it on the decking. Staring on the overhang, you will use your eave as a guide to make the row(s) straight. Make sure you cover your drip edge and Install per manufactures instructions. When installing around a chimney, make sure your ice and water shield goes up the chimney 12”.

    Installing Ice-and-Water-Shield next to Chimney

    Installing Ice-and-Water-Shield next to Chimney

    Apply roll roofing underlayment / roofing felt paper to the deck. Do not apply the roofing underlayment to the ice-and-water shield unless required by a building code. Start at the eave area just over the ice-and-water shield (about 2”) and work your wau up. Make sure you keep this first row straight, using the ice and water shield as a guide. When installing the paper, you will overlap the felt paper per local building code (Usually 2”- 4”). Most paper is marked for overlapping to help keep your rows straight.

    roofing underlayment

    roofing underlayment

    Now you will install the rake side (gable side) drip edge. Overlap the eave drip edge by about 1/2” cutting the 90 degree angle between the top and side, so you can roll over the rake drip edge at the corners. This will make your drip edge neat and secure. Only the shingles will go over the rake drip edge, as explained later.

    Installing gable rake over drip edge flashing

    Installing gable rake over drip edge flashing

    Install new box vents if applicable. Apply a bead of caulk around the entire flange base of the vent. Set the box vent over the vent hole, making sure you are centered to the hole. Press the entire flange firmly to create a good seal. Nail all four corners and the middle of each side of the flange. Apply flashing cement to the entire outer seam and all nails.

    Now install your stack vent flashing and boot. Many boots are a one piece unit that include the flashing and boot put together. Slide the boot over the stack and slide down for proper fit. Slide the boot back up and apply flashing cement to the top half of the decking only. Slide the boot back down and secure with roofing nails on the top edge and one in each of the middle of each side. You need to leave the bottom loose to install shingle underneath the flashing. The shingles will install over the flashing on the top and middle

    You are now ready to install the shingles. Start by measuring up the eave the length of a starter shingle and place multiple marks on the roof. Take your chalk line from one end to the other and snap a line. This line is where you will set the top side of the starter row. Make sure covers the drip edge completely. If it does not, re-measure and snap a new line. plying the starter row along the eaves. The starter row creates a seal for the first row of shingles. It is imperative that you keep the starter row square to the roof.

    Installing asphalt shingles with a roofing Nailer

    Installing asphalt shingles with a roofing Nailer

    Choose an outer edge to begin laying your shingles. You will completely cover the starter row with roofing shingles, and create an 1/8” lip over the rack edge. When laying your shingles, butt them tight against each other as you move down a row. Place a nail at each end of the shingle about 1” in from the end, then two inner nails spaced evenly apart. The shingles should have a nail guide imprinted on them to show a nail placement.

    Full shingles must have 4 nails, and nothing less than two for partial pieces. When installing your roofing shingles, you need to lay them in a stair type / diagonal pattern. The rows need to offset to prevent leaking. To create an offset, leave the first shingle on the first row whole.


    For the second row    , cut 6 inches off the end of the shingle, then 12 inches off the third row, and so on. When moving up to the next row, place the shingle at the overlay mark on the lower shingle. Read the manufacturers installation instructions for proper overlap method.

    If you have a valley to shingle, make sure you started your shingles away from the valley working toward the valley on the lower side of the valley only. From the side you are currently working on, place shingles over the valley making sure they extend at least 12″ on the other side. As on the other shingles, use 4 roofing nails on each shingle. When nailing the shingle, do not place any nails closer than 6″ from the valley center. You may want to lay a shingle, find where it sits in the valley and give it a small bend so the shingle sits firmly in the crease. Press tightly in the valley to prevent bridging and do not use any nails within 6 inches of the center of the valley.

    Shingling a valley

    Shingling a valley

    Build your shingles up to the highest part of the valley at the ridge. Using your chalk line, snap a line down the center of the valley. This will provide a cutting guide for the shingles you will place on the other side of the valley.

    Move to the other section of the roof, then start laying shingles just like you did on the other section of roof. Laying shingles over the starter row and working up. When you get to the valley, cut the shingles along the chalk line. It is best placing metal flashing or a scrap piece of wood under the shingle you will be cutting, as not to cut the shingle underneath.

    Apply roofing cement to the underside of each cut shingle in the valley center. This will serve as a water barrier. Press firmly to create a good seal with the shingle and the cement, then nail the shingle in place. Again, do NOT set a nail any closer than 6″ from the valley center.

    Applying the roof cap is the next step. You have the choice of purchasing cap shingles or cutting your own out of standard shingles. To cut your own, just cut down multi-flap shingles into individual shingles. Cut the shingles so that both edges of the upper overlap part have an inward angle.
    Place the first shingle end flush to the edge of the roof.

    Nail each side of the shingle to each side of the ridge, just below the shingles self-sealing strip. Install the next shingle approximately 2″-3″ past the seal strip of the first shingle. Keep this up until you reach the other end of the peak. Your last shingle is an exposed shingle.

    Take your shingle knife and cut the overlap part of a cap shingle so that there’s just half of a shingle. Use this piece to cover the overlap part of the last exposed shingle. Place one nail on either side of the ridge then seal the exposed nails with cement.

    Final Thoughts

    Shingles are not meant for roofs with less than a 2:12 pitch. If you have a shallow pitch or a flat roof, this is not for you. Make sure you seal every joint and seam, as a bit of extra work now will save you a lot of work and money down the road. It is always better to do roofing in warm or hot weather. Shingles have a self adhesive strip to allow them to bond with each other. It’s the sun’s heat that makes this bond happen. Always check your local building codes for specifications and permit requirements. Check with your homeowners insurance agent to see if they offer a discount for additional securing of the decking. By adding extra nails, it could give you a few dollars off your premium. Preparation is key to doing a good job.

    References:

    How to Roof – A step by step instructions on “How to Shingle a Roof” published by All Construction Directory.


    Metal Roofing Installation     – Illustrated instructions on how to install steel shingles metal roofs.

    Posted in Re-Roofing | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments

    Metal Standing Seam Roof – A Green Choice

    Posted on by Alex

    Standing seam metal roofing, a succession of vertical sheet metal roofing panels connected by a vertical locking mechanism called the seam. The seams can be seen from the top ridge of the roof all the way down to the eaves. The locked seam is raised in order to maintain the waterproof property of this roofing style and provides for a unique appearance.

    Modern metal roofs can last substantially longer than traditional wood or asphalt shingles, although the initial cost of metal roofing materials and installation can be considerably higher as well.

    Aged Copper Standing Seam Metal Roof

    Aged Copper Standing Seam Metal Roof exhibits a distinct Patina look of aged copper

    Standing seam roofs are very energy efficient, environmentally safe and long lasting. They are a popular choice in “green” construction projects. Since many standing seam metal roofs can last for more than 50 years with virtually no maintenance. Thus, standing seam beats traditional roofing competition by a factor of three in terms of its useful lifespan.


    Basic Properties

    As with all metal roofs, standing seam roofs are resistant to fire and wind and are just as quiet as asphalt, clay, or wood shingles when it rains. Standing seam metal roofs are available in a wide variety of Cool Roof colors, which can make a bold architectural statement, help reduce your cooling costs, and provide for a virtually maintenance-free, lifetime lasting roofing system.

    Special Coatings

    Special solar reflective, snow shedding coatings are commonly applied to standing seam roofs during metal coil painting process to increase the waterproofing properties and to improve the heat-reflective efficiency. Titanium dioxide is one such coating technology that reduces the amount of dust that collects on the roof, which in turn increases the roofs cooling ability.


    Seam Joints Basics

    Standing seam roofing systems created with zipped joints work best for curved and pitched roof surfaces as well as practically flat roofs. The modern, distinctive look of a standing seam roof, makes it a popular choice for the cutting-edge homeowners who are looking to increase the curb appeal of their property.

    Metal standing seam roofs have been around for hundreds of years and are very long lasting and durable. A metal standing seam roof can even be installed over an existing asphalt shingle roof, which can save the time and expense involved in removing and disposing of the old roof.

    When installing standing seam roof over the old asphalt shingles roof, it is highly recommended to first install a high grade roofing underlayment, and take a special care in the installation to avoid telegraphing of asphalt shingles effect.

    By roofing with metal “overtop”, you will help keep our environment cleaner, and take advantage of using recyclable metal roofing materials that also contain a meaningful proportion of recycled metal.

    standing seam metal roof

    Standing Seam Metal Roof

    While traditionally, metal roofs were mostly seen on agricultural buildings, barns and factories, modern architecture uses metal roofing as a material of choice in green building inspired residential construction.

    Standing seam metal roofs are virtually maintenance free, and can easily shed water, ice, and snow better than any other roofing material. Standing seam metal roof provides better protection from the elements in dry climates and in marine environments.

    Standing seam metal roofing materials are available in aluminum, copper, steel, and zinc. Government buildings commonly use zinc or copper standing seam roofing materials, and commercial buildings will often use pre-painted structural standing seam roofing panels made out of galvalume coated steel.

    Type of Metal

    Aluminum is a metal roofing material of choice because it can often last longer than steel, but the price is normally slightly higher. Aluminum offers the benefits of not rusting or corroding as steel will when used as roofing material in coastal regions.

    Copper is a wonderful, but rather expensive choice for a standing seam roof. It is naturally beautiful and very long lasting. Different finishes can be applied to a copper roof to allow it to weather naturally, or increase the patination process. Replicating the green patina that is normally accomplished after many years is hastened by treating the copper with a special chemical, which increases the rate of oxidization.

    Stainless steel as a metal roofing material for a metal standing seam roof can make quite a daring visual statement as it reflects a great deal of color and light. Stainless steel is resistant to corrosion in most applications, and is available in a heavy-duty rank of steel when installed in harsh or damp climates.

    Standing seam roofs made with zinc can be treated with chemicals to reproduce the natural aged look of a light gray or slate gray color.

    Finding a Roofer with the right Skills to Install Your New Metal Roof

    Finding a Roofing Contractor trained in the Installation of Standing Seam Metal Roofs can be a challenge, and as a self-respecting homeowner you will have to do your due diligence when searching for an experienced metal roofing contractor capable of delivering excellent installation, service, and warranty you deserve.

    Installation by properly trained roofing professionals is highly advised as the cost of the materials can be quite high, and any mistake can drive the price up further. In addition, improper installation can greatly affect the waterproofing properties and compromise the long lasting integrity of your roof.

    Posted in Metal Roofing | Tagged , | 4 Comments

    Re Roofing a House – Learn How to Roof!

    Posted on by Alex

    Nowadays a 25 year rated average asphalt shingle roof will only last an average of 10 years. The reason for that is quite simple; with the rising prices of crude oil, many asphalt shingle roofing manufacturers are looking for ways to reduce their production costs. By lowering the quality of their roof products, many roofing manufacturers are able to use a lesser amount of petrochemicals in the production of asphalt shingles.

    It doesn’t matter much that their product can only deliver 10 years of life before it becomes mushy and starts breaking down into pieces. You may well ask: How is it possible that they provide a 25 year warranty on their asphalt shingle roofing product? The answer is very simple; their warranty is not even worth the paper it’s written on. It’s a prorated warranty, and it does not cover the cost of labor. Thus, if your new $10,000 roof fails in 10 years, then you will only get back the amount it would cost to buy a fraction of the materials used on your roof. Once again, it will not cover the cost of labor.

    We’re providing this information in order to help you better understand the flows of the product you the consumer are paying for. Not only is contemporary asphalt shingles poor in its quality, but it also has quite a significant negative impact on the environment. There is no easy way to recycle the old asphalt shingles, which is the reason why there are millions of pounds of asphalt shingles dumped into our landfills every year.

    Fortunately, there are some durable and long lasting roofing alternatives; metal roofing can last well over 35 years providing reliable service and energy savings. When re roofing a house, consider installing a metal roof, which will give you many years of reliable service and the peace of mind.


    Metal roofing advantages:

    Metal roofs are available in a wide variety of styles, colors, and material choices. Metal shingles present the most basic and affordable type of metal roofing. It’s suitable for any home whether historic or modern, it’s relatively easy to install. Metal shingles are lightweight, durable, and can be ordered in just the right style to complement your home.

    Ask for the energy star rated and cool-roof rated metal shingle roofing product, this way you will get an energy efficient roof that qualifies for governmental tax credits. The advantage of metal shingles roof is that you can install it right over your existing roof. Provided that you only have one layer of asphalt shingles on your roof, you can install one layer of water barrier and you can start installing your new metal roof.

    Metal Roofing Installation

    As far as the cost to benefit relationship goes, metal roofing provides the greatest number of benefits than any other roofing material available on the market today. Installing metal roofing will upraise the value of your home and help you reduce your air conditioning costs.

    In the fire prone areas, a class A fire rated metal roof will provide much needed protection against this threat of fire spread and that may help you lower your insurance costs. A metal roof performs extremely well in all types of environments; in Northern climate metal roof sheds snow and ice, which helps prevent ice dams from forming on your roof.

    In the hotter climates, a metal roof accommodates for thermal shocks through its ability to expand and contrast under rapidly changing temperatures. Factor in the energy savings and reduced cooling costs, and it becomes clear that a metal roof is a far superior type of a roof.

    Be sure to read a roofing material comparison guide to gain a better understanding of pros and cons of all major roofing materials, and their costs.
    If you’re still interested in learning how to roof with asphalt shingles, then you can read the how to shingle a roof installation guide.
    And if you would like to learn how to install metal roofing, then read are metal roofing installation guide.

    Posted in Re-Roofing | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

    Preventing Ice Dams – How to Prevent Ice Dams on a Roof

    Posted on by Alex

    An ice dam is a formation that can appear on your roof during extended periods of snow and cold weather. They occur when ice builds up along the edge of your roof, creating a dam that traps water in a pool on your roof. If a large enough amount of water collects, it can force its way in under the shingles into your house.

    An ice dam can occur because hot air rises from your home up into the attic. The air collects in the attic, particularly at the highest points along the ridge of the roof. The heat then passes through the roofing material, melting the snow that has collected upon it. The melted snow trickles down the slope of the roof, becoming cooler as it reaches the colder edges of the roof. As it cools, the water refreezes, forming ice. As the process continues, the ice can build up along the edge of the roof. It may also form long icicles hanging from the edge of the roof. As snow continues to melt and run down the roof, it meets the ice ridge and is unable to pass it. The water therefore collects behind the ice ridge or dam.

    Why You Need to Prevent Ice Dams

    Preventing and removing ice dams is essential if you want to protect your roof and home from the harmful effects that these ice formations can produce. An ice dam can cause serious damage. It can force water in through the shingles of your roof, leaving behind a leaking roof that will need to be repaired if you want to prevent further water damage occurring every time that it rains. The water that enters your home through the damaged roof can also cause serious problems inside. It can damage the insulation in your attic and the wooden structure of your home. It can also damage anything that you keep in your attic. When it reaches the attic floor, the water can also soak through your ceiling and begin to cause damage within the rest of your home. The moisture in your attic and home can also result in problems with rot, damp and mildew. Repairing all of this damage and replacing any items that have been affected can be very expensive and time consuming.

    Ice Dam on a Roof

    Ice Dam Prevention Methods

    Various methods can be used to prevent ice dams from forming on your roof or to remove ice and snow as it begins to collect on top of the roof. You can take a long term approach by ensuring that your attic and roof are properly constructed, or you can buy a product that is designed to remove ice and snow from your roof.

    Insulation and Ventilation

    Ensuring that your attic is well insulated and that there is plenty of ventilation for the attic space is one of the best ways of preventing ice dams from forming on your roof in the long-term. The insulation can reduce the movement of heat into your attic from the house below. This can help to prevent the heating of the snow on your roof, so it is less likely to melt and cause problems with ice dams. The ventilation can help keep cold air from outside circulating through your attic, which makes it impossible for heat to build up in the attic space. It can also help remove any moisture from the attic.


    Ice Dam Prevention Products

    If you do not have the time to insulate and ventilate your attic because your roof is covered with snow and requires an immediate solution to ice damming, you can use ice dam prevention products such snow rakes to push the snow off the roof, ice melting cables to melt the snow, and ice snow melting panels.


    Metal Roof as an Ice Dam Prevention Measure

    Metal Roof for Ice Dam prevention

    Installing a metal roof can also provide a long-term solution to preventing ice dams. Ice dams are much less likely to form on metal roofs because metal roofs are coated with a special type of coating that makes it difficult for the snow to accumulate. Instead, much of the snow will simply fall off a metal roof before it has a chance to melt and refreeze. Metal roofing can also help to make your home greener and more energy efficient. A combination of well insulated house protected with a metal roof can help reduce the heat loss from your home in the winter, while keeping your home cooler in the summer. However, if you do choose to install a metal roof, you will need to be very careful to prevent scratching your metal roof if you decide to remove the snow off your roof with a snow rake.

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    Concrete Vs. Clay Roof Tiles

    Posted on by Alex

    Do you love the distinct and attractive look of roof tiles? If the answer is yes, then you are among a growing number of home owners who pick tiles as their roofing material of choice. While initially tile roofs can be a costly investment, they provide many great benefits including durability, longevity, great curb appeal, low maintenance and safety. Traditional (non-metal made) roofing tiles are available in concrete or clay, and comes in a multitude of shapes, profiles and colors.

    When choosing between concrete or clay roofing tiles, it is important to understand the properties of each material, and the major differences between the two.

    What is a Concrete Roofing Tile?

    Concrete tiles are made of mixture of sand, cement and water, which are molded under heat and high pressure. The exposed surface of a tile may be finished with a paint like material. Concrete tiles have additional water locks, or interlocking ribs on the edges that prevent water infiltration. Concrete tiles come in three main appearances: 1. Flat profile- no curves. 2. Low Profile- small curves and has a rise to width ratio equal to 1:5 or less. 3. High Profile: large curves and has a rise to width ratio greater than 1:5. Concrete tiles can simulate the appearance of traditional clay tiles, wood shake, slate and stone. Like clay, concrete tile surfaces can be textured or smooth, and tile edges can be ragged or uniform. They are resistant to hail, wind, and fire, making them a very safe roofing material when properly installed.

    What is a Clay Roofing Tile?

    Clay tiles are produced by baking molded clay. The density of the clay is determined by the length of time and temperature at which it is heated. Colors of clay tiles range from shades of white, yellow, orange and brown. The most commonly used clay color is the terra-cotta. Another alternative to these natural earth tones is to add enamels to the tile and make any color of roof tiles. This process is called “ceramic” and consists of spraying enamel over the tile before baking it.High temperatures of the kiln permanently bond this color to the clay tile so it will not peel or fade. As a result there are a wide variety of tile profiles, styles, finishes and colors available. Because clay tiles are made from a natural earth derived material, they are environmentally friendly and easily recycled. Clay tiles are resistant to strong winds and cannot be destroyed in a fire. Because of the way they are shaped clay tiles protect the underlayment of your roof, and isolate the heat or cold from being transferred to your home.

    What are the primary differences between Concrete and Clay roof tiles?

    1. Water Absorption

    Concrete roofing tiles have a water absorption of about 13%, while clay roofing tiles have a water absorption of about 6 %. Consequently, this higher rate of water absorption leads to the development of mildew and stains on concrete tiles. Absorbed water also increases the already heavy weight of a concrete tile, and puts increases pressure on the roof structure. These issues are very minimal in clay tiles due to their low water absorption rate.

    2. Weight

    Concrete tiles weigh almost 40% more than clay tiles. Concrete tiles can weigh anywhere from 820 to 1.100 pounds per square depending on the style, while most clay roofing tiles weigh only 600 – 650 pounds per square. As a result, it is more difficult for the roof structure to adequately support the heavier weight of concrete tiles vs. clay tiles. In some cases, concrete tiles are not recommended for use on buildings, unless the roof framing is reinforced to support the added weight.

    Propensity to crack and shatter

    In colder climates, clay tiles have the tendency to crack or shatter due to freezing and thawing cycles. As a result, clay tiles are mostly found in warmer climates. Conversely, concrete tiles are not as susceptible to damage due to freezing temperatures, and therefore can be used in almost any climate.

    3. Maintenance

    Heavier weight, higher rate of water absorption and formation of mildew makes concrete tiles a lot more challenging to maintain than clay tiles, which are almost free of these issues. For example, on ceramic finishes in Matte and Glazed clay tiles, absorption and mildew rates are almost non existent. This means that a clay roof would be practically maintenance free.

    4. Color Longevity and Appearance

    Since clay is a naturally occurring material, clay tiles maintain their original color for years despite being subjected to weather conditions. The ceramic finishes offered by many clay roof tile manufacturers, are baked in high temperatures of around 2000 degrees, creating a non-porous finish that will virtually last forever. On the other hand, the color-thru technology used in concrete tiles is not as effective in maintaining the original bright tile color, and concrete tiles are known to fade over time. Due to its porous nature, concrete tiles are also more prone to stains than clay tiles.

    5. Durability

    While both concrete and clay tiles outperform most other roofing materials in durability, at the end of the day clay is a more durable material than concrete. Concrete tiles may last between 30 to 50 years, while clay tiles may well last over 100 years. You can still see beautiful clay roofs on many buildings in Europe, which have been there for centuries.

    6. Prices

    For all the reasons mentioned above it should come as no surprise that clay tiles cost about 30% more than concrete tiles. Since both of these roofing materials are expensive in comparison to most other roofing choices, you need to consider whether all the added benefits that clay tiles have to offer are worth the extra expense.

    Posted in Roof Tiles | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

    Cool Roof Options for your Home

    Posted on by Alex

    A variation of the cool roof is a green roof, sometimes also called a living roof, or a vegetative roof. That is because flowers, plants and even a vegetable garden can grown in a special soil system right on top of the building. Cool roofs are not really super high tech, and that is a part of their overall appeal. They are a relatively simple and effective way to improve our environment, and lower home/building energy costs.

    Some of the most popular and efficient cool roofing options available on the market today are cool flat roofs, cool metal roofs, and cool asphalt roofing shingles. Cool flat roofs are the material of choice in warmer climates where heavy rains will not saturate the roof causing damage and leaks. Cool metal roofing materials are on the cutting edge of technology with a wide variety of finishes, designs and colors.

    A cool metal roof provides greater energy savings compared to most other non-metal roofing products on the market today. Metal roofing is also environmentally sustainable. A metal roof contains significant portion of recycled content, and lasts much longer than most non-metal roofing systems. Best of all, a cool metal roof is 100% recyclable at the end of its useful life.

    Moreover, the good news for consumers who care about the look of their roofs is that cool roof product types have exploded in recent years. Contrary to most people’s beliefs cool roofs also need not be white.

    New Trends

    The newest trend in the cool roofing market involves the use of “cool color” products, which use dark-colored pigments that are highly reflective in the near-infrared (non-visible) portion of the solar spectrum. With “cool color” technologies, there are now cool roofs that come in green, red, blue, and almost any color imaginable. Whether you are looking for shingles, tiles, modified bitumen, field-applied coatings, or single-ply membranes, there is a “cool” version of the system available that can meet both, architect’s and building owner’s aesthetic and energy saving needs.

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    Residential Metal Roofing Benefits

    Posted on by Alex

    Historic Background:

    Although, metal roofs have been installed for centuries all over Europe, in the US, metal roofing has not received the same widespread acclaim. But, things are starting to change rapidly as homeowners are becoming exposed to a new-to-them concept of residential metal roofing through TV infomercials, and seeing their neighbors getting new metal roofs put on their homes.

    Standing Seam Meta Roof Installation

    Standing Seam Metal Roof


    What are some of the advantages of Metal Roofing?

    Standing Seam Metal Roof

    Standing Seam Metal Roof

    There are a quite a few advantages that metal roofs provide over shingles; namely modern metal roofs are energy efficient, light weight and very long lasting. The robust growth of metal roofing industry has made it possible for metal roofing manufacturers to offer a wide variety of residential and light commercial metal roofing systems designs, and styles to choose from; these include steel shingles, metal slates, metal shakes and tiles, standing seam and residential-grade corrugated metal roofs] designed to be aesthetically appealing and built to last.

    Steel Shingles Metal Roof on a Hip Roof of a 2 story home

    Steel Shingles Metal Roof on a Hip Roof of a 2 story home


    Your Contractor is a Key to Getting a Long Lasting and Durable Metal roof

    Modern metal roofs are designed to last a lifetime, but there is a catch, your metal roof needs to be installed correctly. Thus, it is of vital importance that you find a reputable metal roofing company to install your new metal roof. Make sure that you only hire a specialty metal roofing company, and not just a regular roofer to install your new metal roof for you.

    What about the Cost of Metal Roofing?

    Metal Roofs are not cheap and come with a price tag. You may expect to be quoted a price that is two to three times of what you would normally pay for a basic shingles roof. But, do not let the higher price of a metal roof to discourage you from making this smart investment into your home. Keep in mind that energy savings on your cooling costs, and not having to re-roof again in 10 to 15 years will easily help off set the higher initial cost of your new metal roof.

    Other Benefits

    Your home’s value will improve, and you will never have to tell a prospective home buyer that they may have to put on a new roof should you ever decide to move to a new home. Lets not mention all the compliments you will receive from your friends and family. Finally think of the comfort of having an infallible confidence in your roof no matter what storm may be headed your way…

    Posted in Metal Roofing | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

    Corrugated Metal Roofing Facts

    Posted on by Alex

    Corrugated metal roofing, a type of roofing material made of corrugated metal panels that are typically seen on a barn or the roof of a factory. Corrugated metal roofing lasts much longer than a standard asphalt shingles roof. The corrugated roofing panels are made of metal sheets that are shaped into ridges or waves. Once shaped, the metal roof panels are then grooved, or corrugated, in order to create channels for water and snow to flow off the roof.

    Corrugated Metal Roofing Panels

    Corrugated Metal Roofing Panels

    Corrugated metal roof panels are shipped to construction sites in full sheet form, then sized to the roof, and cut to fit. A corrugated metal roof is extremely cost effective, durable and sturdy, and has long been the preferred material for roofing for agricultural and industrial buildings. In comparison to an ordinary roof covered in asphalt shingles, a corrugated metal roof can last up to five times as long, or 30 to 80 years, although the initial installation cost of a corrugated metal roof can be higher than that of other commercial roofing materials.


    Longevity Factors

    How long a corrugated metal roof will last, is often determined by the thickness of the panel, and type of coating used. The ticker the panel, and the better the quality of coating used the longer the system will likely last. Proper maintenance will also play a major role in the longevity of the system.

    While corrugated metal roofing has long been the most popular choice for commercial and agricultural purposes, corrugated metal roofing materials are gaining a respect in the residential market as well. There are many types of metal roofing materials and styles, and corrugated galvanized steel is becoming a very popular material in modern architecture as well as in green building new construction projects, and energy efficient retrofits. Corrugated galvanized steel is made from sheets of wrought iron, which are most often covered in a zinc coating, shaped, and then rolled into corrugated sheets, which are then delivered to the building site.

    There are several varieties of coatings that can be applied to a corrugated metal roof to keep it from rusting, to reflect heat, or to increase its waterproof properties. Ceramic and epoxy coatings are typical, but many new materials have been developed as well. Ceramic coatings have long been used for reflecting heat off corrugated metal roof panels based upon the technology developed by the NASA space program. Color choice is generally limited to matte white, and dirt build-up can significantly decrease the amount of solar radiation reflected over a number of years. For this reason, ceramic coatings are normally avoided in residential application.

    Nanotechnology is part of the new inventions in corrugated metal roof coatings and adds a great deal of value to them. When a corrugated metal roof is layered with these heat-reflecting coatings, it helps to keep the buildings cool and increases the lifespan of the roof. Less stress is created on the metal joints and bolts when there are no extreme variations in temperature to cause expansion and contraction stress on metal panels. Titanium dioxide is a nanotechnology coating that is actually self-cleaning. By reducing the amount of dust that accumulates on the corrugated metal roof, the efficiency of the cooling is maintained. In coastal areas, a corrugated metal roof can be treated with coatings that minimize damage from the sea salt.

    Fire, wind, and hail resistant, corrugated metal roofing is very strong and durable. For structures built in northern or mountainous regions, a painted metal roof is ideal for shedding extreme amounts of snow. Coating a corrugated metal roof with reflective coatings can help save money on utility bills by reducing the use of air conditioning, as the shiny roof will reflect a great deal of heat from the sun. An additional benefit of a corrugated metal roof is that very little maintenance is required, unlike a traditional shingled roof. Noise can be a disadvantage of a metal roof in the event of rain or a hailstorm, and low hanging tree limbs can drag and scratch along the surface as well.

    Maintenance on a corrugated metal roof is limited to the rare need to re-coat the metal roofing panels in the event of corrosion, or if the factory finish begins to fade. Polyester and acrylic coatings are known to cause issues with corrosion and fading, which is why the newer generation of roof coatings, such as Kynar considered as a lifetime coating, are recommended for longevity and better performance. Occasional exposed fastener re-tightening, and re-caulking may also be necessary in order to maintain water-tightness.

    Professional installation is recommended for corrugated metal panels, which are expensive when you opt for high-end panels, and mistakes in the installation can cause roof leaks. It is critical to use the correct fastening devices, and waterproof washers approved by the manufacturer in order to ensure that a roof remains sealed properly.

    Posted in Metal Roofing | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

    Learn How “Not” to Hire a Roofing Contractor to Install Your New Roof

    Posted on by Alex

    Before you even pick up your local roofing contractors classifieds, yellow pages, or start your search on the internet, you have to decide for yourself on a new type of roof that you want.

    Deciding on the type of roof you would like first will help make it easier to find a specialist who knows how to install the type of roof you are interested in.

    If you have a lower slope or a flat roof on your home, then you will want to find a company that specializes in flat roofs. If you want a cedar shake roof, then you will want to find a cedar shake roofing specialist.


    The key is to hire a specialist rather than a “we do it all” roofer who knows very little about the type of roof you are interested in.

    Remember that you do not want your weekend shingles warrior to install a specialty metal roof, or a slate roof. Metal Roofing just like slate roofing is a specialty trade that requires proper training, experience and system specific now how to install your roof correctly. Unless of course you want to have leaks in your new roof next time it rains. Who would, right? Well, then you will have to do your homework, and look at the roofing company’s work before you decide to hire them.

    NewEnglandMetalRoof.com – a specialty metal roofing company provides a directory of specialty trade roofing contractors encompassing PVC roofing specialists and green roofers, metal roofing contractors, slate, clay tile, wood shingles and cedar shake specialists. If you are in the market for a quick fix solution, or a not-so-energy-efficient asphalt shingles roof, then you can find roofing contractors installing roofing shingles in a directory provided by New England Metal Roofing Company.

    Posted in Roofing Contractors | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

    Roof Repair DIY How to Methodology to Repair Asphalt Shingle Roof Leaks

    Posted on by Alex

    Repairing a leaky roof is not as difficult as properly diagnosing and identifying the correct causes of roof leaks. Finding the cause of a roof leak is the most challenging aspect of any roof repair. In this guide I will show you how to identify and diagnose the cause of a roof leak, and how to address it so that there are no more leaks in the future.

    First and foremost, it is essential to know the age of your roof. Most asphalt shingle roofs require replacement after 15 years. If you roof has missing, or curling shingles with cracks in the shingles, then it is a sure tale sign that your roof is near the end of its service life and needs to be replaced outright, rather than repaired.

    However, if your roof is only a few years old, then you can either call the roofing contractor who installed your roof, or try to figure the cause of a roof leak and repair it yourself.

    Diagnosing a cause of a Roof Leak:

    If your asphalt shingle roof develops a leak following a heavy rain storm, or after being exposed to hurricane strength winds, then it is likely that your leak happened due to a missing or damaged shingle. If this the case, then your roof problem can be easily solved by replacing any missing or damaged shingles.


    Basic Requirements for the Job:

    Obviously, you need to be able to use a hammer to drive 6 to 8 roofing nails in, and you need to have a roofing ladder to get to the missing shingles. Make sure you get someone who is knowledgeable and experienced with using a ladder, which will need to be properly secured for you to work off of it safely.

    You will also need a pry bar to remove the nails holding any damaged, or rotten shingles in place, or the nails left after any blown away shingles.

    Steps to Replace a Missing Shingle:

    Replacing a Missing Roof Shingle

    Replacing a missing or a damaged roof shingle

    1. Remove the nails and pull out any damaged or rotten shingles that require replacement.
    2. Round off both upper corners and slide a new matching replacement shingle in place of the old shingle, underneath the shingles of the row above it.
    3. Align the new shingle with the shingles to the left and right side, and make sure that its vertical lines match the established pattern for other shingles.
    4. Apply and spread a bit of roofing cement (You can get it a home improvement store) with a putty knife underneath the corners of your replacement shingle. Lift up the shingles above it to make room for you to nail in your replacement shingle, securing it at the corners with galvanized roofing nails (these can be picked up at your local home improvement store).

    5. Once you have secured the corners of your replacement shingle, put in four roofing nails across the nailing line of your replacement shingle at about 1/2 to 3/4 inches above the edge of an overlapping shingle from the row above.
    6. Once your replacement shingle is fully secured in its place, cover the nail heads with roofing cement, and you are all done.

    Identifying and Repairing Any Breaks and Gaps in a Roof Flashing:

    If all of your roof’s shingles seem to be intact, then you will have to investigate further, which will require looking for any breaks or damages to your roof’s flashing including any vent pipes, chimney, and skylight flashing if applicable. You will need to get up onto your roof, and look for any damage or breaks in the flashing, especially around chimney and any other roof penetrations.

    If you find any breaks anywhere in the roof flashing, or any gaps in the roof cement, then you know that you will have to either reinstall the flashing, or repair at the point of failure.

    Normally, you can use a solar seal exterior grade caulk, or a roofing cement to repair any breaks in the roof flashing.

    If you cannot find any problems with your roof’s shingles, and all the roof flashings seem to be intact, then check to see if your roof has a sufficient pitch for an asphalt roof. If your roof’s pitch is less than 3 to 12, then it is likely that your roof is a subject to roof leaks due to a wind driven water.

    If your roof has a solid pitch 5 to 12 and above, then be sure to also check the gables/side edges of the roof to see whether the gable flashing is installed underneath the shingles on all gable sides of your roof. If there is no metal flashing in place, then it means that your roof was installed by a lousy crew, and needs to be redone. The cause of your roof leak, in this case, would be easily explained by the absence of a gable flashing, which makes your roof vulnerable to a heavy rain coming at an angle due to strong winds.

    If your roof leaks due to ice dams, or due to a poor roof design such as when a dormer wall is covered with a melting snow during the winter, then you will need a professional correction to address the flaws in your roof’s design.

    If you have a flat roof, or a low slope roof covered with rubber or rolled roofing, then you will need to follow the steps of a flat roof repair guide.


    DIY Roof Repair Techniques and Steps by RoofingCalcultor.Org:

    For more information on DIY roof repair, read a detailed guide provided by the Roofing Calculator website.

    Posted in Roof Repairs | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

    Slate Roofing Guide

    Posted on by Alex

    Slate roofing is an attractive and durable option that was quite popular in Europe, and made its way to the US in the 19th century. A properly installed slate roof can last from 100 to 200 years. Slate roof is very expensive, but its quality, beauty and longevity will make up for the higher cost of slate roof on the right home.

    Traditional Home with a Slate Roof

    Traditional Home with a Slate Roof

    There are a number of important considerations that should be taken into account when choosing a slate roof. Slate roofs are considered highly desirable. They are often installed to create a traditional, or period look. Slate roof is fireproof and water repellent. Slate roof will last for a very long time (sometimes for well over a century), while requiring only occasional maintenance.

    Installation Points

    Slate roof is extremely heavy, therefore, it needs to be supported by a strong roof frame that has been properly designed and reinforced to withstand the weight. Slate roofing should only be installed on roofs that have a reasonably steep roof pitch.

    If you decide that slate is the right roofing material for your home, then it is important to ensure that you choose the best type of slate for your roof. Slate is available from many locations around the world, and it is produced to many different standards. Picking the highest quality slate is important if you want to reduce the chance of breakages and leaks occurring. Quality can really go a long way, if you want your new slate roof to last as long as possible.

    Material Considerations

    The appearance of the slate is very important to most buyers. Slates come in a range of different colors, including black, blue, green, tan and gray. It is, therefore, possible to choose the slate that will be the best match for your home, and your own taste.

    Although the cost and color of the roofing slates are likely to be an important factor influencing your decision, it is also important to consider a number of other factors; the type of slate, the size and the thickness. A good slate should retain its color over time, rather than fading away quickly. Poor quality slates can stain your roof due to the leaking of pyrites from the slates.

    The manufacturing process is particularly important for the quality of roofing slates. A high quality manufacturer should have excellent quality control procedures that will help prevent any problems with the slates. Manufacturers who care about the quality of their products will remove unfit slates rather than selling them. Some manufacturers drill their slates, while others punch the holes through slates. When you are buying slates, it is critically important to find a reliable, and a high quality slate roofing supplier.

    It is usually best to choose slates of a standard thickness, produced by a reputable manufacturer, with punched holes. There are many good Canadian and American producers of slate roofing, but it is also possible to find good sources from overseas.

    The thickness and size of the slates will have important consequences for their installation. The thicker the slate is, the harder it will be to cut it. This means that thick slates are, therefore, best suited for the most experienced roofer to install. The size of the slates can also be important, since the smaller the slates are, the longer it will take to lay them on the roof.

    The choice of slate for your roof is not the only important aspect of slate roofing. It is also essential to ensure that slate tiles are laid properly in order to prevent problems with premature roof leaks or condensation building up around the frame of your roof.

    For example, an experienced professional will be able to grade the slates properly by installing the thinnest grade slates at the top of the roof, and the thicker ones lower down. This will help to make your slate roof last longer, as well as making it look more uniform and attractive.

    Resources:

    Roofing Contractors – Directory of roofers organized by specialty including slate, and metal roofing.

    Roofing Directory – Comprehensive roofing resource containing roofing articles, publications, and vendor listings.

    Posted in Slate Roofing | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

    Roofing a Home Guide

    Posted on by Alex

    Throughout history people have used different kinds of materials to protect their homes; from tree barks and animal skins to modern composite materials that we use today. The main purpose of the roof is to protect the house from external weather conditions such as rain, snow, and hail.

    A roof must also have good aesthetic qualities and contribute to the visual appeal and overall value of the home. Before reroofing a house you must decide whether your old roof needs a few smaller repairs, or if it is a time for new roof.

    If there are some missing shingles on your roof, or if you notice a lot of cracked and chipped shingles, then it is probably a good time to get a new roof.

    Choosing Roofing materials

    You can choose between asphalt shingles, wood shingles and shakes, natural or synthetic slate, metal roofing, tile or fiber cement. When deciding what material to use you must have few things in mind – climate conditions, life span, maintenance, aesthetic characteristics and, of course, price. Keep in mind that it is better to choose low maintenance material with long life expectancy even if the price is higher. For example, asphalt shingles are inexpensive but have relatively short life span, only 15 to 25 years. They are easy to repair but environmentally unfriendly.

    Wood shakes and metal roofing will cost more but last far longer than asphalt. Metal roofing, once installed correctly requires little to no maintenance, while Cedar Shakes will require some regular maintenance.

    Natural slate is very expensive material, but it can last for a 100 years.

    No matter what material you are going to use for roofing a home, its basic elements are wood framing, sheathing, underlayment, flashing, gutters and downspouts and shakes for final layer. Wood framing is the structure on which the roof itself is being built. Then you are going to need good sheathing. Plywood and oriented-strand-board are mostly used as sheathing. Some types of cedar shakes require spaced-board sheathing.

    Roofing felt is used as roofing underlayment. It is heavy paper saturated with asphalt; its function is to prevent water from leaking and deteriorating the roof construction.

    Flashing is made of aluminum, galvanized steel or vinyl. It helps water flow away from the roof. All flashing should be done before installing the roofing system. Choose the gutters and downspouts which are easy to clean; clogged gutters retain water.

    If you are going to install new skylights, then it is a good idea to do it at the same time as a re-roofing of your house takes place.

    Green Roof Options and Solar Shingle Roofing

    There are two interesting types of modern roofs, green roof and solar roof. Green roofs are environmentally friendly and cost effective. They provide good insulation, absorb rainwater and help reduce higher temperatures in the cities known as a green island effect. Different kinds of plants can be planted on the roof. Green roofs are also known as living roofs. Solar roofs are made of special shingles or tiles. They accumulate sunlight during the day and transform it into solar energy. You can use solar energy to illuminate the house or for heating. This is environment friendly roof that can give your home a unique look thanks to the dark blue solar shingles.

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